Adventures in Travel

The trip to La Turbie was eagerly anticipated for the ancient history and breathtaking views from the highest point above Monaco on the A8 Autoroute (original Roman, Julia Augustus road dating from the 1st century BC). While our schedule was fairly relaxed, we did have bus and train schedules to maintain since the bus frequency was somewhat limited from Monaco to La Turbie. Starting off at 0700, we walked the 2 1/2 miles to the train station (with just one minor deviation since we missed Blvd. Gambetta and took a different street), the train was on time but a bit crowded since many people live in Nice and commute to work in Monaco. It is only a 30 minute train ride to Monaco stopping along the way at Villefranche, Cap Ferrat, and a couple of other seaside villages. We arrived in Monaco at 8:45 with plenty of time to catch the Ligne 114 bus at 10:30 from Place D'Armes. I had researched the schedule and location of the bus station which was not too far from the train station, so off we went walking, again. Having been in Monaco before and walked the streets, we were not entirely unfamiliar with the city, but, installation of the security fencing and barricades for the Monte Carlo Formulae 1 race was in full swing, this means half the streets and sidewalks are blocked off so it is difficult to walk from Point A to Point B in any kind of a straight manner. After walking for some time and asking directions, we finally caught a local bus that would take us to Place D'Armes, the local buses are very nice, at each covered bus stop, there are BIDS (Bus Information Displays)graphically showing the location of buses that service each stop, the location on the route of each bus and the time when the bus arrives. From this bus stop we were approximately two blocks from Place D'Armes but just could not get there, so the bus which only runs one direction (just left Place D,Armes) had to make the entire route through the city to get us back to where we would catch the 114 to La Turbie. Needless to say the clock was ticking as we took the bus through the entire city, which was quite an experience in itself, nice views of the harbor, all the great shops, Casino etc. Fortunately, Monaco is not that big and we arrived at Place D'Armes with 10 minutes to spare. Had we missed this bus, the next one did not arrive for three hours. Our next challenge was to find the bus station where the bus would depart, no station was in evidence, just a five-way intersection, with traffic, tunnels, and many city bus lines, again, asking for directions was somewhat helpful. We ascertained that no one knew where the La Turbie bus actually arrived or departed; there are four different bus stops scattered around the intersection, so we checked each stop to look at schedules, bus lines etc. As I mentioned earlier, each bus stop is loaded with useful information, but nothing for La Turbie. One of the shop keepers suggested the bus stop where the Nice bus departed so we walked over and again lots of useful information on the local buses, and a schedule for the bus to Nice, but nothing on La Turbie. Time was slipping away with only one or two minutes left as we scurried around the intersection, we finally decided to stay at the Nice stop and at precisely 10:30 a motor coach arrived with La Turbie-Monaco on the front windshield! The fare is 1 Euro, or about $1.35 each way which is very reasonable for a trip up into the mountains. The ride through the city and up into the mountains was not for the faint of heart, not sure exactly how the bus made the hairpin turns since the road is barely wide enough for two cars let alone a full size bus and the occasional construction vehicles coming down the hill. Many people with little regard for their safety ride bikes up the mountain is some sort of test of strength, or stupidity so they can say they did not get hit by a bus or car! Several times the bus basically took up the entire roadway as it negotiated the tight turns, but we arrived safely and were rewarded with spectacular views of Monaco, the surrounding mountains and coastline.

Lunchtime! The bus ended the journey n the heart of La Turbie, a lovely alpine village. The main street has the usual restaurants, local merchants and an occasional souvenir shop, across from the bus stop is a very nice restaurant La Terrasse, situated on the hillside overlooking the valley and the coastline to Cap Ferrat, where all the rich and famous live. We were a bit early for lunch so the owner suggested we sit on one side of the restaurant used for breakfast, no tablecloths, fairly barren and austere looking. The other side of the restaurant with the view was set up for lunch and the hope of greater income. The owner, Jacques Barraja, asked where we were from, we said Seattle, he said Rick Steves home, and asked if we knew him, we knew of him through his travel shows and books, but not personally. He said he knows him and his partner, is on his Facebook page, etc. So, we get moved over to the nice side of the restaurant with the view and tablecloths, offered free internet and free phone calls to home. Maybe if we knew Steve personally we could have a free lunch? Jacques was very nice, his wife is from Australia and his sister from Washington DC, they live in Nice and commute via the A8 to their restaurant. After lunch we wandered through the village and up to the Le trophee de Auguste monument, this monument which was built in 6BC by Augustus after defeating the Gaulish tribes between 25 and 14BC, is your basic "I kicked your butts" monument built to be visible for miles and reminds every one that we kicked your butts and don't forget it! The Romans were pretty good at building monuments and this one is no exception, originally 164 feet tall with a 20' statue of Augustus on the top, and niches for statues of his generals around the colonnade. At the bottom was inscribed the names of the 44 tribes who were conquered. Some 400 years after construction and demise of the Roman empire, it was partly dismantled and used as a stone quarry. It was partly restored between 1905 -1923 by an American. Did I mention it is Monday and the museums are closed on Monday)oh, well we were able to get very close and saved the 10 Euro fee to get in. So, for the trip back to Monaco, the bus arrived early, oops, lunch break, so we cooled our heals at a local restaurant while waiting for the driver to return. The trip back to Monaco was uneventful, no one run off the road, no crashes, nothing spectacular to report. The bus stopped at the train station, so with this bit of good fortune we walked into the train station to catch the 2:13 PM train back to Nice. We had purchased our return tickets in Nice, so all we needed was a train. Now, after using the train system in Europe, we have become quite experienced at schedules buying tickets, and getting on the right train. I normally carry a local schedule so we know the train schedules, upon arriving at the station and consulting the train information display (TIDS), we noticed the next Nice train did not arrive until 5:13, okay, so it was not the weekend, there should be a train at least every hour and sometimes more frequently. Hmmm, I asked a man at the ticket booth when the next train is scheduled and he confirmed 5:13, something was definitely wrong.... There were a couple of announcements in French, something to do with disruption, and helpful employees were there at the station to answer questions, but no helpful people in sight. The train finally arrived 10 minutes late full of people from prior stops and at least 2000 people in Monaco waiting to get on. It situations like this it is best to forget your manners and consideration for others, just concentrate on pushing and shoving, which we did and got a place in the last car, jammed with people but at least a bit of breathing room, but wait, there is more! As the doors were closing at least 10,000 Spanish students magically appeared trying to get on the train. Approximately half of the 10,000 made it, the others were left stranded as the doors were shut and the train departed. Fortunately with only thirty minutes to Nice and a couple of stops along the way, the oxygen was not depleted and almost all of the passengers arrived safely. According to news reports the French rail workers are on another strike so only 30% of the local trains are running. Another 2 1/2 mile walk home a stop at the grocery store and we were back in the apartment at 7:00 PM just 12 hours after we left. No bad for a three hour tour! I was thinking about canceling the car for the rest of our travels in Provence, but I am thinking the car is a good alternative. $8.00 per gallon for gas but we should at least get to where we are going.

Something Different

This morning, true to the weather forecast, it is cloudy and cool with a bit of wind. The sun is out and although a little windy, it is very comfortable on the veranda, overlooking the promenade and beach. Not much planned today, possibly a visit to the Musee Massena which is close by, then a walk to the Supermarche to pick up a few groceries. Also laundry, having a clothes washer is a benefit, I could have bought just three changes of clothing instead of more items which would have left more room for souvenirs! I have been planning our next trip which is tentatively Greece, but after seeing a travel program here I decided the next adventure will be to Algeria; a two week journey across the desert with camels, eating bread baked on coals, washing our utensils with sand, and no hope of a shower for 14 days. But, we would have to buy alpenstocks for the trek, (always wanted a pair to go with my lederhosen). Barb thinks this is a great idea! She is currently on the chaise lounge soaking up solar radiation whilst I document our travels. Tomorrow, La Turbie!

On the beach

This morning we moved out of the old town Nice apartment to the studio apartment on the beach. Instead of taking the bus the two plus miles to the new apartment, we dragged our suitcases and other bags full of recent purchases down the promenade in the mid-day sun. I felt much like a homeless person moving all my belongings, and when people started to offer money, I realized I must have looked pretty pathetic. But we made it in just over an hour and hauled everything up 101 stairs to the fifth floor. The building does have a lift but then we are used used to walking up five flights of stairs, so we shunned the lift. The building was constructed in 1955 and is really lovely, true Mediterranean, nicely maintained and a bit larger then the apartment in the old town. The French (what else)double doors open up on a veranda overlooking the promenade and beach, the view is from Cap Ferrat all the way to Antibes, truly spectacular. I did notice a few people on the beach, fisherman, folks sunbathing, riding bicycles and the weather was perfect, not too hot. Barb thinks she is in heaven, but I remind her she can't be in heaven while living with the devil. She is quick to remind me her maiden name comes from living with the devil, or something like that. We also have a nice view of the airport so if we get bored, we can watch the planes take off and land. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a bit windy, so we have nothing planned yet, maybe just sit on the veranda and watch the world go by. Monday we plan to take the train the Monaco then a bus to La Turbie up on the Grand Corniche. Tuesday, off to Barcelona for a couple of days. I could get used to this life!

This is Babara...normally I "allow" Michael to post for us but in this instance, I need to tell you MY perspective....My husband has NEVER sunbathed. Today, we spent nearly 4 hours on the beach and I slept, read, watched people, etc. He on the other hand came back with stories and experiences I did not have.....I did not see the topless women but he is still talking about it (that's better than his search for the perfect coffee grinder!) We are having interesting discussions on whether to retire or not. After being here for 2 weeks and knowing we have 3 more to go, I AM READY.....I find 12 hours of sleep perfect....who wouldn't??? Life is really wonderful and kind of like a fantasy right now except I miss my family and sisters, mom, kids, and gkids....I guess we can't have it all. Michael is making dinner now and I will call my gkids on skype. Hope everyone is happy, well and doing exactly what they want to do!!!

The Beach!

Today is a beautiful day, near 70 degrees, not a cloud in the sky. We spent some time on the beach which started to get crowded about noon, the water temperature is still cool but not too cold to take a dip. Even with the sunblock, I am feeling a bit of redness. Barb said no more talk about the coffee grinder in the blog, but I felt some people might need closure on this issue since it has not been fully resolved. So, after this post, no more about the lack of grinders in Nice. I think the reason for the lack of grinders is most people have an espresso machine that grinds the beans as part of the process so there is no need for a grinder, other folks, fluent in French, can obtain coffee ground to the correct coarseness, so there is no need for the sale of grinders. Enough said. Tomorrow we move to the beach apartment, we are going to miss the old town, everything is so close and convenient; we really know our way around, the vegetable and wine merchants know us, and except for the one aforementioned item we were able to get everything we needed here. The beach apartment is about 1 1/2 miles to the West but in the newer section of town which is more touristy, and a bit more industrial. Hopefully the new place will be quieter. because of the narrow lanes, it is very noisy here with the motorcycles, cars, construction etc. The beach apartment is on the main road, but I think it should be a bit quieter, we shall hear.

Close but no cigar!

Although the weather forecast was for rain, we only had a few drops, so today we took it easy and walked to the main shopping district. Barb is no longer the only woman in Nice without boots! She found a pair of black boots discounted in one of the local boutiques; compared to other boots I have seen, these are not too awful. But then, beauty (fashion) is in the eye of the beholder! We also purchased a real French Chef's knife and a cutting board since the implements in our apartment are somewhat lacking. The search for a coffee grinder continues, we looked thorough all 5 floors of the major shopping center Nicetoile, with several cuisine (kitchen) stores, without any luck. I finally got desperate and purchased a grinder (coarse) designed for spices but still too fine for coffee. Oh, what to do? Our coffee supply is running low except for the whole beans. We also visited the Museum of Natural History and the Palais Lascaris, which is a palatial home not far from our apartment that dates from the
1700's originally belonging to the Lascaris family, which were from the ruling family of Malta. Tomorrow, the beach! Supposed to be 68 degrees!

Success, un moulin cafe!

We found a coffee grinder! After a week of searching, we actually found several grinders in a local herb store that sells salts, peppers, herbs, and grinders for all of these. Unfortunately the grinders are on the expensive side, so the search continues. We took a nice stroll to the Port area, looked at the expensive yachts, and felt sorry for the folks with the big expensive yachts that are devastated when a bigger boat comes into the harbor. My guess is size matters when showing off your yacht. We have walked the rue's (streets) enough to really know our way around this city, the narrow lanes are fun, full of people, restaurants and shops on every corner and 10 paces in between. Today, we took an empty wine bottle to the cave (wine cellar)and had them fill the bottle with the local red table wine, Barb of course took photos of the event. Here I am trying to fit in like a local, speak the language, and out comes the tourist camera; I might as well be wearing lederhosen and march down the rue with two alpenstocks in unison with dozens of like minded people!
Tomorrow is supposed to be rainy so we thought about taking the train and a bus to La Turbie, a small village above Monaco reputed to have fantastic views, but then if it is raining, how can the view be any good? La Turbie is on the grand corniche road that was originally part of the main Roman road, it has a monument built in 6 BC by the Emperor Augustus to celebrate conquering the area. Other that, not much history.
So, with the entire area experiencing light rain, my guess is tomorrow is another shopping day, starting with lousy coffee since we have no grinder. Oh, ma qualite, ce qui font? Barb misses Bob's espresso, out of desperation, we had to walk to the square and get an espresso from Fenocchio's this evening. Bob, could you deliver some espresso until we find a grinder, or any relatives here in Nice? Italian coffee would be nice in Nice.